Your skin naturally produces an oil known clinically as ‘sebum’, which helps retain moisture. Oily skin is caused by excessive sebum production, which can cause shine and enlarged pores.
Oily skin is very common, especially during adolescence, when it is the main cause of acne (pimples). Acne is common in about 85% of people aged 15-25. Acne and oily skin affect the appearance of your skin and can affect your self-image.
Successful approaches to managing oily skin focus on restoring proper sebum levels.
Oily skin mainly affects the face, scalp and upper body. It is often focused on the “T-zone”, which is the forehead, eyebrows, nose and chin. Common signs of oily skin include:
- Waxy or shiny skin with an “oily” appearance
- Enlarged pores, which are small holes in the skin that release oil and sweat
- Acne, including red bumps (papules), white or yellow bumps (pustules), nodules (bumps under the skin) and cysts (pimples)
- Closed comedones, or whiteheads
- Open it comedonesor blackheads
- Seborrheic dermatitis (dandruff); itchy skin with white or yellow scales (may appear lighter or darker on brown or black skin)
Some people have “combination” skin, where parts of the skin are oily while others are dry. The T-zone often remains oily in people with combination skin, with cheeks or other areas of the face that are flaky and dry.
In a process called holocrine secretion, sebaceous glands (located at the roots of hair follicles) produce sebum from material from dead, used skin cells. They secrete this oil into the lipid layer outside the skin (stratum corneum). Oily skin occurs when too much sebum is produced and disrupts the layer.
A wide variety of factors can cause or worsen oily skin, such as climate, hormonal changes, genetics, and certain hygiene practices. Cases may arise due to a combination of these factors.
Genetics
There is significant evidence that your genes play a role in oily skin and acne. In one extensive study of identical and fraternal twins, researchers found that genes account for nearly half of the variability in sebum production.
Genetics may not be the only factor, but it clearly plays a big role.
Androgens
High levels of androgens – a class of sex hormones that includes testosterone – stimulate the overproduction of sebaceous glands in both women and men. Not only does this lead to oily skin, but it also causes acne in teenagers or men using testosterone replacement therapy.
Because estrogen—the hormone that regulates the female reproductive system—reduces sebum production, oily skin is more common in people assigned male at birth than in people assigned female at birth.
Growth hormones
Growth hormones like insulin and insulin-like growth factor-1 (IGF-1) are produced in the pituitary gland, which is part of your endocrine system. They regulate your height, bone length and muscle development. High levels of these hormones stimulate your sebaceous glands to release more sebum.
Because they are more active during puberty, adolescents are more likely to have oily skin and acne.
High glycemic diet
Studies have linked high-glycemic diets, which are high in carbohydrates and simple sugars, to sebum production. This may be due to effects on hormone activity, including spikes in insulin and IGF-1. Foods with a high glycemic index include white or whole grain bread, white rice, many snack foods, potatoes and sugar.
Lack of sleep
There’s a reason they call it beauty sleep. Not getting enough sleep doesn’t just leave bags under your eyes; it can also boost oil production. In one study of adults in South Korea with oily and non-oily skin, sebum levels were consistently lower after four hours of sleep.
Skin care practice
Certain hygiene practices and habits can make oily skin worse. Soaps, lotions and other products made with alcohol or oil irritate the skin and break down the stratum corneum. Although they can temporarily remove the oil, it can cause increased production.
Humidity
Your pores secrete sweat when exposed to hot or humid air, stimulating sebum production. Studies have shown that humid air can cause acne and oily skin, especially when it’s hot. Dampness is also linked to the onset of eczema, which causes dry, scaly and itchy skin.
Oily skin can cause more frequent breakouts because excess oil can attract dirt and bacteria, which can infect pores and cause acne. It can also cause makeup to be uneven or tougher to apply and not last as long after application.
Oily skin can affect self-esteem and lead to loneliness and social isolation. In numerous studies, those with oily skin and acne had higher rates of anxiety and depression and were more likely to feel stressed.
Establishing a skin care routine can go a long way in managing oily skin, removing excess oil, and preventing acne. A few steps that can help include:
- Regular face washing: Wash your face twice a day – in the morning and before bed – and after exercise or physical activity. Be gentle.
- Mild soaps: Do not use alcohol or oil-based soaps, which can irritate the skin and increase sebum levels. Foaming, gentle face washes are best.
- Wet: When the skin becomes too dry, the sebaceous glands become more active, producing more oil. Use a gentle, oil-free moisturizer.
- Peeling: For oily skin, deep-cleansing scrubs, such as glycolic acid, remove dead skin cells and prevent clogged pores. Exfoliation once or twice a week.
- Facial toner: Use facial toners to moisturize skin and tighten pores.
- Makeup removal: Remove all makeup before going to bed.
When it comes to living with and managing oily skin, it’s important to develop good habits. The overall goal is skin that is neither too oily nor too dry.
For oily skin
Here’s what you need to do to take care of oily skin:
- Check the ingredients: Make sure soaps, lotions, or other products are labeled “oil-free,” “non-comedogenic,” and “alcohol-free.”
- Use blotting paper: Blot with absorbent paper to remove excess oil, being careful not to irritate the skin.
- Block UV rays: Protect your skin from the sun; use sunscreen or wear a hat to limit exposure.
- Use safe makeup: If you wear make-up, use oil-free or water-based products and choose foundations, concealers and foundations that are ‘shine-free’ or ‘matte’.
- Change your brushes: Use brushes or pads, not your fingers, to apply makeup and change them regularly to prevent bacteria build-up.
- Get help: If you’re having trouble managing oily skin on your own, talk to your doctor or seek care from a dermatologist.
Oily skin is not needed
Mistakes people make when caring for oily skin often include irritating or drying out the skin, disrupting the skin’s barrier and increasing sebum production. Here’s what you shouldn’t do:
- Do not use harsh soaps: Never use oil or alcohol based soaps or lotions and be gentle when washing your face.
- Don’t go to bed with makeup on: Wearing makeup overnight can disrupt the skin’s barrier and cause oiliness or other skin symptoms.
- Do not touch your face: Dirt and bacteria from your fingers on your face can get into your pores, causing acne. Limit how much you touch your face and avoid picking or popping pimples.
- Don’t overdo it: Stick to your facial cleansing routine, but keep in mind that cleansing too often can disrupt the stratum corneum, causing more sebum production.
In addition to skin care routines and good practices, there are a number of additional ways to manage and treat oily skin. These range from medications to lifestyle changes and other treatments.
Medicines
In severe cases of oily skin, a dermatologist (skin specialist) may prescribe:
- Topical retinoids, a form of vitamin A that is applied to the skin
- Hormonal birth control, which increases estrogen levels to take over the oil
- Topical niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3 that promotes the skin barrier
- Isotretinoin, an oral retinoid
- Spironolactone, a diuretic (water pill) used for high blood pressure
- Injection of botulinum toxin A (Botox).
Dietary changes
Because foods with a high glycemic index can cause oily skin and acne, modifying your diet to avoid them can be an additional management tool. Avoid sugars and carbohydrates while focusing on healthy, lean sources of protein and fresh vegetables.
Natural remedies
Many products are marketed to treat oily skin, but not all are effective.
There is evidence that green tea can help, with eight weeks of regular use measuring a reduction in sebum in one study.
Clay masking, wearing a mask made of clay to cleanse the skin, can effectively remove oil from the pores. In one study, clay masks twice a week for four weeks reduced oiliness and acne.
Oily skin looks shiny or oily. It occurs when the glands in the skin produce too much sebum, excreting it from the pores. A combination of genetic and environmental factors causes this condition, which can lead to frequent acne and affect quality of life.
Moisturizing and regularly cleansing the skin with gentle products are among the methods for managing oily skin. Dermatologists (skin specialists) may prescribe medication in severe or difficult-to-manage cases.