Vitamin C and retinol (a form of vitamin A) are two of the most common ingredients found in modern skin care products, mainly for their anti-aging effects. When applied to the face, either vitamin can reduce wrinkles, correct dark spots, and increase collagen production, helping skin look plumper and healthier.
You can choose to buy a skin care product that contains both vitamin C and retinol, or layer the individual products together. It’s important to know how the ingredients interact, how their benefits and side effects can increase when used together, and how to incorporate them into your routine.
Dietary and supplemental vitamin C does not seem to offer noticeable benefits to the skin. However, topical use of vitamin C, for example in skin care products, has been shown to have a significant effect.
Research has shown that topical vitamin C has several benefits for the skin, including increasing collagen (the protein that supports skin, hair, nails, and more), reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation and dark spots, and preventing photodamage (damage from UV rays caused by the sun).
For example, topical vitamin C can effectively improve symptoms of melasma (dark spots) and photoaging, including rough skin texture and discoloration.
Retinol is part of the retinoid family, a broad category of skin care treatments that contain vitamin A. Many retinoids are strong, and the formulations are only available with a doctor’s prescription. However, retinol is a gentler formulation commonly found in over-the-counter (OTC) products.
Vitamin A is a powerful and effective antiaging skin treatment. The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has approved retinoids for antiaging use, and many studies support their ability to prevent and reduce the signs of aging.
Specifically, topical retinol in skin care products can:
- Improve skin texture
- Correct hyperpigmentation and dark spots
- Reduce fine lines and wrinkles
Some skin care ingredients work well when combined in the same formulation or applied one after the other. However, many active ingredients (ingredients designed to target a specific problem) can cause excessive irritation when used simultaneously.
Vitamin C and retinol are both active ingredients, and results regarding their combined effects have been mixed. Studies show that skin care routines that include vitamin C and retinol often have positive effects, but the two ingredients can irritate the skin when used together.
In one study, researchers looked at the effects of a skin care routine that included a 0.5% retinol treatment and a 30% vitamin C moisturizer on people with hyperpigmentation and photodamage. Participants noted improvements in tone and texture at 4, 8, and 12 weeks of the study, with little initial dryness as a side effect.
Another study showed that a combination retinol-vitamin C skin peel increased the amount of skin lipids (fat) in menopausal women. Menopause often causes dry skin, and an increase in lipids in the skin can improve the skin barrier and keep the skin hydrated and healthy.
Both of the studies mentioned above examined the effects of combined retinol and vitamin C treatment after 12 weeks and both found improvements in skin tone and texture.
In a study that used 0.5% retinol and a 30% vitamin C moisturizer, participants experienced fewer signs of photoaging, which typically include dark spots, wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and uneven tone.
In a study using a retinol-vitamin C skin peel, participants had an increase in skin lipids in the areas of the forehead, cheeks, nose, chin and neck. This probably means that they have experienced a general strengthening of the skin in those areas. The lipid layer is responsible for creating a barrier against damage and infection and for preventing moisture loss.
Some people can use retinol and vitamin C at the same time, either by layering one after the other or using a product that contains both ingredients. However, skin care experts don’t usually recommend this because it can cause irritation. Instead, consider using vitamin C as part of your morning skincare routine and retinol at night.
Vitamin C has a protective effect against photodamage, so applying it in the morning is especially beneficial, especially if you also use a daily sunscreen.
Topical vitamin C is often available in serum form. You can apply serums after cleansing and toning, but before moisturizing. Some toners and moisturizers also contain vitamin C in their formulation, so you won’t need to use a serum.
Retinol is usually recommended as part of a nighttime skin care routine because it can make your skin more sensitive to the sun. Applying retinol at night protects your skin from UV exposure while it is absorbed. However, it’s still important to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen (or limit sun exposure) the next day.
Vitamin C is generally safe for most skin types, but it can be irritating. Some people may experience mild burning, redness or rash, or dry skin after using vitamin C. Applying a moisturizer after a vitamin C product can reduce some of this irritation.
Retinol is considered safe for most people, but is more likely to cause mild side effects, especially with higher doses and longer use. Typical side effects include excessive dryness, redness, itching, and scaling or peeling.
People with sensitive skin, conditions that make them prone to redness or inflammation, or untreated acne may need to choose a gentler product. Currently, no retinoid products are considered safe for use during pregnancy.
Anyone with sensitive skin who plans to try a new skin care product, especially one with an active ingredient like vitamin C or retinol, should introduce the product slowly. Do a patch test on a small area of skin, applying the product twice a day for 7-10 days.
As you begin to incorporate the product into your routine, consider using it every other day or 2-3 times a week and gradually increase the frequency of use to prevent excessive irritation.
Separately, topical products with retinol and vitamin C have been shown to improve signs of aging, including fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and loss of elasticity. It’s generally safe to include both of these ingredients in your skin care routine, which could boost their anti-aging effects.
However, using these active ingredients together can cause skin irritation. To reduce side effects, consider applying vitamin C in the morning and retinol in the evening.